You’ll love the beautiful texture of this Sleeveless Tank Top, worked in Crochet Crunch Stitch, also known as Even Moss Stitch. The pattern is written for a cotton blend DK weight yarn in sizes small through 3X.
“Crunch Tank Top” free crochet pattern by Kim Guzman © Mar. 2024. All rights reserved.
Technique: Regular Crochet.
Crochet Pattern At A Glance
Crunch Tank Top Free Crochet Pattern
Designer: Kim Guzman © 2022-24. All rights reserved.Rate the Pattern
Yarn
- King Cole “Linendale DK” yarn, size 3 weight, 57% cotton/30% viscose/13% linen, 131 yds/120m, 1.76 oz/50g ball, 6 (7, 9, 10, 10, 12) balls or 720 (900, 1060, 1200, 1300, 1500) yards in color Opal
Other Materials
- Suggested Crochet Hook Size H-8 (5mm) or hook needed to meet gauge, referred to as “larger hook” AND Size G-7 (4.5mm) crochet hook, for trim only, referred to as “smaller hook”
- Yarn Needle for weaving ends
Instructions
- This project begins with working the Bodice section in crunch stitch. The back is made first, then the front, separately.
- Seam the shoulders and sides.
- Pick up stitches along the bottom, working in the opposite direction to work in double crochet rounds for the lower portion.
- A single crochet trim is added to the armholes and neckline. Secure all ends then block as desired.
Full Free Crochet Pattern Below
This is a free crochet pattern and the written instructions are below. If you prefer a printable download, a PDF is also available for purchase.
My Crochet Pattern Notes
This sleeveless tank top pattern is worked, starting with the bodice, from bottom to top. The bodice is worked in two pieces, front and back, seamed at the shoulders and sides. Stitches are then picked up at the bottom and worked in the opposite direction for the lower skirting.
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Finished Sizes
The model size is intended to fit up to 34″ bust (size small) with no ease. The pattern is written for sizes small (up to 34″), medium (up to 38″), large (up to 42″), 1X (up to 46″), 2X (up to 50″) and 3X (up to 54″). The first number in all instructions will be for the smallest size in that section and the rest of the sizes will be in parenthesis.
This is an empire waist design. As written, the lower portion fans out a bit, about 3 or 4″ more than the bodice portion. If you don’t want it to fan out, you can reduce the number of initial stitches at the beginning or perhaps try the smaller hook.
The sizes for garments are never intended to be perfect for every single body type. Review the schematic showing the measurements to determine whether you will need to make any adjustments.
Yarn
King Cole “Linendale DK” yarn, size 3 weight, 57% cotton/30% viscose/13% linen, 131 yds/120m, 1.76 oz/50g ball, 6 (7, 9, 10, 10, 12) balls or 720 (900, 1060, 1200, 1300, 1500) yards in color Opal.
At the time of writing this pattern, “Linendale DK”, a DK weight yarn, is available in 10 solid shades.
I was able to find it at Wool Warehouse.
Other Materials
Suggested Crochet Hook Size H-8 (5mm) or hook needed to meet gauge, referred to as “larger hook” AND Size G-7 (4.5mm) crochet hook, for trim only, referred to as “smaller hook”.
Yarn Needle for weaving ends.
Gauge
Using larger hook and working in stitch pattern for bodice, 17 sts for 21 rows measures approximately 4 x 4″.
Crunch Stitch vs. Even Moss Stitch
The entire bodice of this tank top is made in Crunch Stitch. If you’ve seen it called Even Moss Stitch, it’s all good. This happens with crochet through different publishers, including internet publishers. It happens more often than you think.
Crunch stitch is a simple one row stitch repeat made up of slip stitch and half double crochet. Thereafter, half doubles are on top of slip and slip are on top of half doubles.
The fabric is fairly dense, making it the perfect choice for the bodice of a top like this.
I’ve used Crunch stitch in another project on Make It Crochet, Ups and Downs Twisted Headband. It’s a quick and easy project that would be perfect for practicing the stitch pattern, if you like. The difference between the headband and the tank top here is that I’ve counted the beginning chain-2 as a stitch to help with the stitch count during the shaping of the neck and armholes.
Common Pitfalls
It takes some retraining of muscle memory to use slip stitch as an actual stitch. It doesn’t immediately come naturally. I kept trying to make a single crochet.
The other issue is that the last two stitches of each row are pretty tight. It’s easy to miss a stitch or two. You can either mark the last stitch (the beginning chain 2) or count every row. Always remember that your last stitch of each row is going to be a slip stitch.
First Double Crochet Of A Round
The Lower Skirting portion of this pattern is worked solely in double crochet. You can work a typical join and chain up for the first double crochet, if you like. I decided to try out the modified first double crochet called Stacked Double Crochet, which is actually two single crochet stacked on top of each other to replace the beginning chain up.
I used the one from Marly Bird and it looks like this when complete. You can also try a different version from Tamara Kelly, if you want something different.
I’ve made this seam at the side edge so it’s not really seen as easily. I simply wanted to try something new and see how it worked out. You can use something new or stick with the traditional crochet chain.
Abbreviations
This tank top crochet pattern is written in US crochet terminology.
beg=beginning; ch=chain; dc=double crochet; hdc=half double crochet; lp(s)=loop(s); prev=previous; RS=right side; rep=repeat; sc=single crochet; sk=skip; sl=slip; st(s)=stitch(es).
Since there are so many sizes, you may want to print out the pattern and circle only those numbers that apply to the size you are making.
The numbers at the end of an instruction, after a colon, indicate the stitch count for that row.
New Pattern Free PDF Download Weekend
The PDF download for the Crunch Tank Top pattern is available for free this weekend only. This promotion ends at 11:59pm CST, Monday, April 1.
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Free Crochet Pattern Instructions
Tank Top Bodice Back
Row 1: With larger hook (see Materials above), ch 75 (83, 93, 101, 109, 117), sk 2 ch, [sl st in next ch, hdc in next ch] to last ch, sl st in last ch, turn.
Note: The last two stitches of each row are pretty tight. It’s easy to miss a stitch or two. You can either mark the last stitch (the beginning chain 2) or count every row. Always remember that your last stitch of each row is going to be a slip stitch.
Row 2: Ch 2 (counts as hdc here and throughout), sk first st, [sl st in next hdc, hdc in next sl st] to last st, sl st in last st, turn: 74 (82, 92, 100, 108, 116) sts.
Work even until 19 (23, 25, 27, 25, 27) rows completed from beginning. (To complete from beginning means the total rows from the beginning; i.e. from row 1.)
Note: When an instruction says to work even, it means to work the row for the indicated number of times, without decreasing.
Next Row: Sk first st, sl st in next st and sl st in next 4 (4, 6, 6, 8, 8) sts, ch 2, sk same st, [sl st in next hdc, hdc in next sl st] to last 7 (7, 9, 9, 11, 11) sts, sl st in next st, turn, leaving remaining sts unworked: 62 (70, 76, 84, 88, 96) sts.
Next Row: Work even: 62 (70, 76, 84, 88, 96) sts.
Next Row: Sk first st, sl st in next st, ch 2, sk same st and next st, [sl st in next hdc, hdc in next sl st] to last 3 sts, sk 2 sts, sl st in last st, turn: 58 (66, 72, 80, 84, 92) sts.
Rep prev 2 rows 1 (1, 1, 3, 3, 5) times more. 54 (62, 68, 68, 72, 72) sts on final row.
Work even until 56 (62, 66, 68, 68, 70) rows completed from beginning with no decreasing.
Shoulder
Row 1: Ch 2, sk first st, [sl st in next hdc, hdc in next sl st] 5 (6, 6, 7, 8, 8) times, sl st in next st, turn, leaving remaining sts unworked: 12 (14, 14, 16, 18, 18) sts.
Row 2: Work even: 12 (14, 14, 16, 18, 18) sts.
Row 3: Ch 2, sk first st, [sl st in next hdc, hdc in next sl st] to last 3 sts, sk 2 sts, sl st in last st, turn: 10 (12, 12, 14, 16, 16) sts.
Row 4: Ch 2, sk first st, [sl st in next hdc, hdc in next sl st] to last st, sl st in last st, turn: 10 (12, 12, 14, 16, 16) sts.
Rep prev 2 rows 1 (1, 1, 2, 2, 2) times more. 8 (10, 10, 10, 12, 12) sts on final row. Fasten off on final row.
Other Shoulder
Row 1: Return to last row completed before first shoulder, count across 12 (14, 14, 16, 18, 18) sts from other armhole edge, join with sl st, ch 2, sk same st, [sl st in next hdc, hdc in next sl st] to last st, sl st in last st, turn: 12, (14, 14, 16, 18, 18) sts.
Row 2: Work even: 12 (14, 14, 16, 18, 18) sts.
Row 3: Sk first st, sl st in next st, ch 2, sk same st and next st, [sl st in next hdc, hdc in next sl st] to last st, sl st in last st, turn: 10 (12, 12, 14, 16, 16) sts.
Row 4: Ch 2, sk first st, [sl st in next hdc, hdc in next sl st] to last st, sl st in last st, turn: 10 (12, 12, 14, 16, 16) sts.
Rep prev 2 rows 1 (1, 1, 2, 2, 2) times more. 8 (10, 10, 10, 12, 12) sts on final row. Fasten off on final row.
Tank Top Bodice Front
Work to row 19 (23, 25, 27, 25, 27) as for Bodice Back.
Next Row: Sk first st, sl st in next st and sl st in next 4 (4, 6, 6, 8, 8) sts, ch 2, sk same st, [sl st in next hdc, hdc in next sl st] to last 7 (7, 9, 9, 11, 11) sts, sl st in next st, turn, leaving remaining sts unworked: 62 (70, 76, 84, 88, 96) sts.
Next Row: Work even: 62 (70, 76, 84, 88, 96) sts.
Begin Neck Shaping
Next Row: Sk first st, sl st in next st, ch 2, sk same st and next st, [sl st in next hdc, hdc in next sl st] 13 (15, 17, 19, 20, 22) times, sl st in next st, turn, leaving remaining sts unworked: 28 (32, 36, 40, 42, 46) sts.
Next Row: Work even: 28 (32, 36, 40, 42, 46) sts.
Next Row: Sk first st, sl st in next st, ch 2, sk same st and next st, [sl st in next hdc, hdc in next sl st] to last 3 sts, sk 2 sts, sl st in last st, turn: 24 (28, 32, 36, 38, 42) sts.
Rep prev 2 rows 2 (2, 2, 4, 4, 6) times more. 16 (20, 24, 20, 22, 18) sts on final row.
Work even 5 (5, 4, 5, 6, 7) more rows: 16 (20, 24, 20, 22, 18) sts.
Next Row: Working in established stitch pattern, decrease at neck edge only: 14 (18, 22, 18, 20, 16) sts.
Rep prev 6 (6, 5, 6, 7, 8) rows 3 (4, 6, 4, 4, 2) times more: 8 (10, 10, 10, 12, 12) sts.
Work even 10 (6, 3, 6, 3, 10) times more: 8 (10, 10, 10, 12, 12) sts. Fasten off after final row.
Other Side of Neck Shaping
Row 1: Return to last row completed before first half of front, count across 2 (2, 0, 0, 0, 0) more sts, join with sl st, ch 2, sk same st, [sl st in next hdc, hdc in next sl st] to last 3 sts, sk 2 sts, sl st in last st, turn: 28 (32, 36, 40, 42, 46) sts.
Row 2: Work even: 28 (32, 36, 40, 42, 46) sts.
Next Row: Sk first st, sl st in next st, ch 2, sk same st and next st, [sl st in next hdc, hdc in next sl st] to last 3 sts, sk 2 sts, sl st in last st, turn: 24 (28, 32, 36, 38, 42) sts.
Rep prev 2 rows 2 (2, 2, 4, 4, 6) times more. 16 (20, 24, 20, 22, 18) sts on final row.
Work even 5 (5, 4, 5, 6, 7) more rows: 16 (20, 24, 20, 22, 18) sts.
Next Row: Working in established stitch pattern, decrease at neck edge only: 14 (18, 22, 18, 20, 16) sts.
Rep prev 6 (6, 5, 6, 7, 8) rows 3 (4, 6, 4, 4, 2) times more: 8 (10, 10, 10, 12, 12) sts.
Work even 10 (6, 3, 6, 3, 10) times more: 8 (10, 10, 10, 12, 12) sts. Fasten off after final row.
Seaming
Choose which sides you prefer for the RS and, with yarn needle, seam shoulders and sides of Bodice.
Lower Skirting
Turn the Bodice upside down to begin working top-down. See note above for a variation of the first double crochet of a round.
Round 1: Join yarn at either side seam, ch 2 (counts as dc here and throughout), sk first unused lp of beg ch, work dc in each remaining unused lp of ch around, sl st to top of beg ch-2: 148 (164, 184, 200, 216, 232) dc.
Round 2: Ch 2, sk first dc, dc in each dc around, sl st to top of beg ch-2: 148 (164, 184, 200, 216, 232) dc.
Rep round 2 until 14 (14, 14, 14, 15, 17) rounds total have been completed for Lower Skirting. Fasten off after final round.
Finishing
Note: When working the Finishing, skip stitches as necessary when going around a curve so you don’t have any puckering.
Armhole Trim. (Round 1) Using smaller hook, join with sl st at bottom seam of armhole, ch 1, sc around, sl st to first sc. (Round 2) Ch 1, sc in each sc around, fasten off. Rep for opposite side armhole.
Neckline Trim. (Round 1) Using smaller hook, join with sl st at either shoulder, ch 1, sc around, sl st to first sc. (Round 2) Ch 1, sc in each sc around, fasten off.
Weave in all ends. Block as desired.
Schematic
With the Skirting as written, the total measurements from shoulder to hem are 18 (19.5, 20.5, 21.5, 22.5, 24)”.
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Ilene Bieleski says
Beautiful top.
CRUNCHTOP password is not working. says it’s not a valid coupon code for Ravelry.
Kim Guzman says
Here are some things you can try: 1) Don’t copy/paste. It will inevitably add a space at the end. 2) Make sure you’re not adding the code as two words. 3) Make sure it’s all caps. I hope this helps!
Ali Brousseau says
I have a question… the picture of yout top shows the shoulders are straight on the outside and decreased on the neck side. However, the pattern decreases on both sides? which is correct?
Kim Guzman says
The pattern and the photos are correct. There is decreasing on both sides before it gets to the neckline then there is decreasing at the neckline, which may include the remaining decreasing at the bottom of the armhole. I hope that helps.