Faux Love Knot Scarf Free Crochet Pattern

This Faux Love Knot Scarf will give you a similar look of the popular Lovers Knot or Solomon’s Knot. You’ll love this easier version without the guesswork.

This pattern makes a sturdier fabric, not as delicate as the original so you can use it for a wider variety of projects.

“Faux Love Knot Scarf” free crochet pattern by Kim Guzman © Feb. 2023. All rights reserved.
Technique: Regular Crochet.
Skill Level: Intermediate.

Crochet Pattern At A Glance

This is a free crochet pattern and the written instructions are below. If you prefer a printable download, a PDF is also available for purchase.

My Crochet Pattern Notes

This scarf is crocheted from short end to short end. The Popcorn Trim is worked directly onto the last row. Then, the scarf is flipped around and the Trim is mirrored on the opposite side.

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Finished Size

8″ x 50″, including Trim

Yarn

Drops “Belle”, Size 3 DK weight yarn, 53% cotton/33% viscose/14% linen, 50g/1.8 oz, 120m/131 yds per skein: 3 skeins color Cherry, 390 yds used.

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Yarn Substitution

I‘ve used DK weight yarn (size 3) because I love this size. But, I really wanted to try this cotton blend yarn from Drops. If you’ve ever had a handmade quilt, you’ll understand that sort of heavy comforting feel of cotton.

The yarn splits easily, so I recommend that you take your time. It’s not impossible. It simply requires a little bit more patience.

If you prefer, you can use an acrylic or acrylic blend in DK weight. Or, you can change the stitch count with the multiple provided and use any weight you like.

Other Materials

Suggested Crochet Hook Size G-7 (4.5mm) or hook needed to meet gauge.
Yarn Needle for weaving ends.

Special Stitches

Popcorn: Work 3 dc in indicated ch, remove hook from last loop and hold loop with your non-hook hand, insert hook under top 2 loops of first dc, place loop on hook and pull through the top of that first dc.

Other Abbreviations

This crochet scarf pattern is written in US crochet terminology.

beg=beginning; ch=chain; dc=double crochet; dtr*=double treble crochet; rep=repeat; RS=right side; sc=single crochet; sk=skip; sl=slip; sp=space; st=stitch.

*A dtr has 3 yarn overs to start.

All numbers after the colon at the end of an instruction are stitch counts. Use the stitch count to check your work.

Step by Step Photo Tutorial

All the stitches for this scarf are easy to make. It’s just the placement that’s unusual.

The row starts out normally but, after the single crochet and 3 chains [pic 1], you work the double crochet into the side of the single crochet just worked [pic 2].

Chain up again, directly on top of the double crochet and work another double crochet in the fourth chain from the hook. [pic 3]. This makes a little bowtie or perhaps a bat maybe?

Once you skip 5 chains and work a single crochet in the next foundation chain [pic 5], that entire bowtie is turned horizontally.

Continue across in the same manner and single crochet in the last chain [pic 6].

On the second row, you start off with a chain 9, then work a double crochet in the fourth chain from the hook [pic 1]. Once you make the single crochet, it will turn that Beginning Petal horizontally [pic 2].

The last single crochet at the end of a row can get lost easily [pic 3]. You could place a stitch marker there if you have trouble finding it. Work a double treble crochet [pic 4] in the last single crochet. (Note: A double treble crochet has three yarnovers.)

Gauge

In stitch pattern, 22 stitches for 7 rows measures approximately 4″ x 4″.

Stitch Multiple

To change the width, make your initial chain count any multiple of 6, then add 2.

Free Crochet Pattern Instructions

I have designated the right side (RS) of the work solely so the opposite side Trim is facing the same direction. There really is no true wrong side or right side.

Row 1: Ch 44, sc in second ch from hook, *ch 3, dc in side of sc just worked, ch 4, dc in fourth ch from hook (2 “Petals” made), sk 5 ch, sc in next ch, rep * across, turn: 7 sets of Petals.

Note: The last single crochet of odd rows can get lost easily. You can use a stitch marker or small piece of yarn so you’ll know where to make the last stitch of the even rows.

Row 2: Ch 9, dc in fourth ch from hook (Beg Petal made), sc in between set of Petals (see Note), *ch 3, dc in side of sc just worked, ch 4, dc in fourth ch from hook, sc in between next set of Petals, rep from * across, ch 3, dc in side of sc just worked, dtr in last sc, turn.

Note: The best position to use between the set of Petals is in the same chain at the base of the dc worked for that Petal. It can be a little tight. Try to work under both loops of the chain (here and throughout) to keep it from getting loose and sloppy.

Row 3 (RS): Ch 1, sc in dtr, *ch 3, dc in side of sc just worked, ch 4, dc in fourth ch from hook, sc in top of next set of Petals, rep from * across, ending with the last sc in ch at the base of Beg Petal, turn.

Rows 4-81: Rep rows 2-3. Do not fasten off.

Trim

Row 1: Ch 1, sk first sc, *2 sc in ch-4 sp of next Petal, sc in ch of that Petal, 1 sc in dc of next Petal, 2 sc in ch-3 sp of Petal, rep from * across, turn: 42 sc.

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), sk first sc, dc in next sc, *ch 1, sk 1 sc, dc in next 2 sc, rep from * to last sc, turn, leaving last sc unworked.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in first dc, ch 1, sk 1 dc, sc in ch-1 sp, *ch 3, sk 2 dc, sc in next ch-1 sp, rep from * to last 2 dc, ch 1, sk 1 dc, sc in last dc, turn.

Row 4: Ch 1, sc in first sc, *ch 6, Popcorn (see Special Stitches above) in third ch from hook, ch 3, sl st in same ch at base of Popcorn, [ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] twice, rep from * to last ch-1 sp, ch 6, Popcorn in third ch from hook, ch 3, sl st in same ch at base of Popcorn, ch 3, sc in last sc, fasten off.

Opposite Side Trim

Row 1: With RS facing, join with sl st in the first ch-5 sp (where the chains were skipped), ch 1, work 6 sc in each ch-5 sp across, turn: 42 sc.

Rows 2-4: Work rows as for first Side of Trim.

Finishing

Weave in all ends securely. Block lightly, if desired.

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TERMS: To my fellow crafters, you have my permission to use my patterns to make and sell your projects* anywhere you like. You cannot use my images to sell your projects, though. You must take photos of your own work. All patterns have been tested but mistakes can happen. If you find a mistake, please let me know.

*Not intended to be blanket permission for mass production.