Lightweight Crochet Beanie Pattern Sweet Pea

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Sweet Pea Lightweight Beanie Pattern

Designer: Kim Guzman © 2022-24. All rights reserved.

Create a stylish Lightweight Crochet Beanie suitable for all seasons with this pattern. The wide variety of stitches will hold your interest, no matter your skill level.

Est. Crochet Time: 4 hours hours

Est. Cost: $4

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5 from 11 votes

Yarn

• Stylecraft “Special DK”, 100% acrylic, 322 yds/295m per 3.5 oz/100g per skein: 1 skein, approx. 250 yards used, color Magenta

Other Materials

• Suggested Crochet Hook Sizes H-8 (5mm) or hook needed to meet gauge (larger hook) and G-7 (4.5mm) for Ribbing only (smaller hook)
• Yarn Needle for weaving ends
• Pom Pom optional

Instructions

• Ribbing is made in back loop only single crochet.
• Work round 1 directly onto the long edge of the Ribbing.
• Work 20 more rounds without decreasing.
• Work 7 rounds with decreasing.
• Using yarn needle, cinch the top and seam the Ribbing. Attach pom pom, if desired.

Full Free Crochet Pattern Below

Complete pattern is available for free below. Scroll down a bit. A PDF download is also available for purchase. All funds from pattern purchases help keep this website going. Purchase at:

Ravelry

This is a free crochet pattern and the written instructions are below. If you prefer a printable download, a PDF is also available for purchase.

My Crochet Pattern Notes

This hat is worked from the bottom to the top, starting with ribbing worked horizontally and the remainder built onto the long edge of the ribbing.

There is a wide variety of stitches, some perhaps new to you. Together, they make an elegant lightly-lacy stitch pattern.

Working In The Third Loop

In the single crochet round of the stitch pattern, the single crochets are made into what is called “the third loop”.

I’ve made lots of designs working into this loop, but I called them something different in my traditionally published designs. When I used it in the past, I called it a short single crochet.

My most popular design using short single crochet is the Luna Sweater from the December 2009 issue of Interweave Crochet magazine.

I’ve already purchased yarn to republish this design here at Make It Crochet as soon as I have cleared off a place to block it without dog hair. Seriously, for a short haired dog, Pepper sheds an extreme amount of hair!

What Is The Third Loop?

If you look at any crochet stitch, there is a FRONT loop, the one on the top, closest to you. There is a BACK loop, the one on the top, furthest away from you.

The Third Loop is on the literal back of the stitch, below the top two loops. With some stitches, it’s a little tough to get your hook in there because it’s so tight. Half double crochet, for instance is easier than single crochet.

Over the years, I used the term “short single crochet” but I had also seen it called “camel crochet”. Camel crochet was trademarked, though. It took me forever to find a reference in a publication.

Several years ago, though, Tamara Kelly of Moogly Blog made up the name “third loop”. Because the term was so easy to remember and seemed so incredibly obvious, the term stuck and now, most everywhere I see it called Third Loop.

How Do You Crochet Into The Third Loop?

Because the Third Loop is literally on the back of the stitch, you need to work it differently, depending on whether you are working flat or in-the-round.

You can view a short single crochet worked in the round on YouTube.

When working in the round, you insert the hook from top to bottom in that back back loop. If you are working on a flat project, however, the stitch is completed by inserting your hook from bottom to top. These are simply physical differences due to how the work and yarn are held.

Since it’s a whole lot easier to work into the third loop of a half double crochet, I’ve used a half double crochet before a third loop round. I wanted to introduce the technique if you were unfamiliar, but I didn’t want to scare you!

So, for this pattern, the round after a half double crochet round is a single crochet round, worked in the third loop. This gives that little decorative feature on the beanie that looks like knit stockinette stitch.

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Yarn Substitution

I‘ve used DK weight yarn (size 3) because I love this size. There’s a lot of yardage on a 100g skein of Stylecraft Special DK. I like that it’s so economical. You could use any yarn you like, using the hook size you prefer. You may need to make changes to the number of stitches and the amount of yarn required.

Other Materials

Suggested Crochet Hook Sizes H-8 (5mm) or hook needed to meet gauge (larger hook) and G-7 (4.5mm) for Ribbing only (smaller hook).
Yarn Needle for weaving ends.
Pom Pom, optional.

Special Stitches

Double Crochet Crossed Stitch (Cross): Skip 2 single crochets, double crochet in next single crochet, chain 1, working in front of that double crochet, work a double crochet in the first skipped stitch. Do not work around the first double crochet, enclosing it. Push the first double crochet out of the way, if necessary. You want it to stand alone and the double crochets are literally crossed, one on top of the other. The center skipped stitch is left unworked.

Decrease (dec): Working in third loop only, insert hook in indicated single crochet, yarn over, pull loop through, insert hook in next single crochet, yarn over, pull loop through, yarn over, pull through 3 loops on hook.

Other Abbreviations

This crochet beanie pattern is written in US crochet terminology.

beg=beginning; ch=chain; hdc=half double crochet; rep=repeat; sc=single crochet; sk=skip; sl=slip; sp(s)=space(s); st(s)=stitch(es).

All numbers after the colon at the end of an instruction are stitch counts. Use the stitch count to check your work.

Gauge

When completed, ribbing is 1.5″ wide and the length is 18″ unstretched, 20″ stretched. For hat body, in stitch pattern, 20 stitches=4″, 15 rounds=4″.