This lightweight Fingerless Mitts crochet pattern will create a lacy set, perfect for the changing seasons. The range of stitches make an engaging project, catering to all skill levels.
“Sweet Pea Fingerless Mitts” free crochet pattern by Kim Guzman © Jan. 2024. All rights reserved.
Technique: Regular Crochet.
Skill Level: Intermediate.
Crochet Pattern At A Glance
Sweet Pea Fingerless Mitts Crochet
Designer: Kim Guzman © 2022-24. All rights reserved.Rate the Pattern
Yarn
- Stylecraft “Special DK”, 100% acrylic, 322 yds/295m per 3.5 oz/100g per skein: 1 skein, 115 yards used, color Pistachio or Fushia Purple
Other Materials
- Suggested Crochet Hook Sizes H-8 (5mm) or hook needed to meet gauge (larger hook) and G-7 (4.5mm) for Ribbing only (smaller hook)
- Yarn Needle for weaving ends
Instructions
- Ribbing is made in back loop only single crochet.
- Work round 1 directly onto the long edge of the Ribbing.
- Working in a 3-row repeat, complete 10 more rounds.
- Work 1 round, skipping space for the thumb.
- Work a final 3 rounds.
- Using yarn needle, seam the ribbing then weave in all ends securely.
Full Free Crochet Pattern Below
This is a free crochet pattern and the written instructions are below. If you prefer a printable download, a PDF is also available for purchase.
My Crochet Pattern Notes
These fingerless mitts are worked from the bottom to the top, starting with ribbing worked horizontally and the remainder built onto the long edge of the ribbing.
There is a wide variety of stitches, some perhaps new to you. Together, they make an elegant lightly-lacy stitch pattern. This pattern seems fairly easy to me, but I’ve labeled it intermediate solely because of some of the stitches may be some you’ve not used previously.
Sweet Pea Matching Set
If you’re interested in gifts of matching sets. I also have a Sweet Pea Beanie available to match these mitts.
Working In The Third Loop
In the single crochet round of the stitch pattern, the single crochets are made into what is called “the third loop”.
I’ve made lots of designs working into this loop, but I called them something different in my traditionally published designs. When I used it in the past, I called it a short single crochet.
My most popular design using short single crochet is the Luna Sweater from the December 2009 issue of Interweave Crochet magazine.
What Is The Third Loop?
If you look at any crochet stitch, there is a FRONT loop, the one on the top, closest to you. There is a BACK loop, the one on the top, furthest away from you.
The Third Loop is on the literal back of the stitch, below the top two loops. With some stitches, it’s a little tough to get your hook in there because it’s so tight. I’ve used half double crochet for placement of the third loop single crochet since it’s easier to get your hook under the third loop of a half double.
How Do You Crochet Into The Third Loop?
Because the Third Loop is literally on the back of the stitch, you need to work it differently, depending on whether you are working flat or in-the-round.
You can view a short single crochet worked in the round on YouTube.
When working in the round, you insert the hook from top to bottom in that back back loop. If you are working on a flat project, however, the stitch is completed by inserting your hook from bottom to top. These are simply physical differences due to how the work and yarn are held.
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Finished Size
Height: 5.5″, Width circumference: approx. 9″.
Yarn
Stylecraft “Special DK”, 100% acrylic, 322 yds/295m per 3.5 oz/100g per skein: 1 skein, 115 yards used, color Pistachio or Fushia Purple.
“Special Double Knit” is classified as a DK weight (size 3) yarn and is currently available in 100 shades.
Available at LoveCrafts (aff link). If you’re in the US, look up at the top right to switch to US Dollars. I’ve purchased from them for years and love the selection.
If you are unable to use Stylecraft Special DK, any acrylic or acrylic blend in size 3 lightweight yarn will be close enough.
Other Materials
Suggested Crochet Hook Sizes H-8 (5mm) or hook needed to meet gauge (larger hook) and G-7 (4.5mm) for Ribbing only (smaller hook).
Yarn Needle for weaving ends.
Special Stitches
Double Crochet Crossed Stitch (Cross): Skip 2 single crochets, double crochet in next single crochet, chain 1, working in front of that double crochet, work a double crochet in the first skipped stitch. Do not work around the first double crochet, enclosing it. Push the first double crochet out of the way, if necessary. You want it to stand alone and the double crochets are literally crossed, one on top of the other. The center skipped stitch is left unworked.
Other Abbreviations
This fingerless gloves pattern is written in US crochet terminology.
beg=beginning; ch=chain; hdc=half double crochet; rep=repeat; sc=single crochet; sk=skip; sl=slip; sp(s)=space(s); st(s)=stitch(es).
All numbers after the colon at the end of an instruction are stitch counts. Use the stitch count to check your work.
Gauge
When completed, ribbing is 1″ wide and the length is 8″ unstretched, 9.5″ stretched. In main stitch pattern, 20 stitches=4″, 15 rounds=4″.
Free Crochet Pattern Instructions
Make 2
Ribbing
Note: The Ribbing is worked in back loop single crochet. The back loop is the top loop furthest away from you.
Row 1: Leaving 8″ strand (for seaming the ribbing later), with smaller hook (see Materials above), ch 6, sc in 2nd ch and in each remaining ch, turn: 5 sc.
Rows 2-36: Ch 1, working in back loops only, sc in 4 sc, sc in both loops of last sc (for greater stability), turn.
Begin working in rounds across long edge of Ribbing. Do not fasten off.
Ribbing measures 8″ unstretched, 9.5″ when stretched.
Mitt Body
Round 1: With larger hook (see Materials above), ch 1, *2 sc in side of row, 1 sc in sides of next 8 rows, rep from * across long edge of Ribbing, without twisting the Ribbing, pull the first and last row of the Ribbing together and sl st to first sc: 40 sc.
Note: The beg ch-2s aren’t counted as a stitch when using the stitch counts provided at the ends of the rounds.
Round 2: Ch 2, sk same sc, *cross (see Special Stitches above), rep from * around, sl st to top of beg ch 2: 13 cross.
Round 3: Ch 2, 3 hdc in each ch-1 sp of cross around, sl st to top of beg ch 2: 39 hdc.
Round 4: Ch 1, sc in same st as joining, working in third loop only (see Technique above), sc in each hdc around, sl st to first sc: 40 sc.
Rounds 5-10: Rep rounds 2-4.
Round 11: Rep round 2.
Round 12: Ch 2, [3 hdc in ch-1 sp of cross] 10 times, skipping 3 cross without working into them, sl st to top of beg ch 2: 30 hdc.
Round 13: Rep round 4: 31 sc.
Note: If you prefer the next two rounds to cinch in a little, for a tighter fit at the top, you can use the smaller hook.
Rounds 14-15: Ch 1, sc in each sc around, sl st to first sc: 31 sc. Fasten off after final round.
Finishing
With yarn needle and first strand, seam the first and last rows of the ribbing together, if you haven’t done so already.
With yarn needle, weave in all ends securely.
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