Try this Sleeveless Tank Top Crochet Pattern the next time you need something for warmer weather. It’s made in a cooling bamboo cotton blend for sizes S-3X.
“Orange Blossom Sleeveless Tank Top” free crochet sweater pattern by Kim Guzman © Feb. 2024. All rights reserved.
Technique: Regular Crochet.
Crochet Pattern At A Glance
Orange Blossom Sleeveless Tank Top
Designer: Kim Guzman © 2022-2026. All rights reserved.Rate the Pattern
Yarn
- King Cole “Bamboo Cotton” yarn, size 3 weight, 50% bamboo viscose/50% cotton, 252 yds/230m per 3.5 oz/100g skein, 3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 6) skeins or 630 (750, 830, 1000, 1130, 1300) yards in color jaffa
Other Materials
- Suggested Crochet Hook Size H-8 (5mm) or hook needed to meet gauge, referred to as “larger hook” AND Size G-7 (4.5mm) crochet hook, for trim only, referred to as “smaller hook”
- Yarn Needle for weaving ends
Instructions
- The project begins with making the Back Bodice in a bottom to top direction.
- The Front Bodice is made separately then the two are seamed at the sides and shoulders.
- Once seamed, stitches are picked up from the bottom and the lace portion is worked from a top to bottom direction. Adjustments can be made to both the bodice length and the lace length, as desired.
- One round of trim is applied to the armholes and the neckline then all ends are secured. Block as desired.
Full Free Crochet Pattern Below
This is a free crochet pattern and the written instructions are below. If you prefer a printable download, a PDF is also available for purchase.
My Crochet Pattern Notes
This tank top is made by starting with the bottom-up bodice which is made in two pieces with minimal seaming. Stitches are picked up at the base of the bodice and then you work in the round until the length you like.
If you prefer a more modest appearance, extra rows can be added to the start of the bodice to bring that lower onto the torso. Then, fewer rounds are worked for the lace portion.
The lace portion is also easy to adjust. If you need more room or you prefer something more like an empire waist, you can work on a stitch multiple of 6 instead of 8. Instead of skipping 3 stitches between groups, skip only 2 stitches. This will create extra fullness around the torso and hips. Keep in mind that any adjustments will require extra yarn.
A garment with shaping is usually labeled as Intermediate. I’ve decided to give this one a skill level of easy (a 2 out of 4). There is easy shaping, using only single crochet, making this an easier project than most.
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Finished Sizes
The model size is intended to fit up to 34″ bust (size small) with no ease. The pattern is written for sizes small (up to 34″), medium (up to 38″), large (up to 42″), 1X (up to 46″), 2X (up to 50″) and 3X (up to 54″). The first number in all instructions will be for the smallest size in that section and the rest of the sizes will be in parenthesis.
The sizes for garments are never intended to be perfect for every single body type. Review the schematic showing the measurements to determine whether you will need to make any adjustments.
Yarn
King Cole “Bamboo Cotton” yarn, size 3 weight, 50% bamboo viscose/50% cotton, 252 yds/230m per 3.5 oz/100g skein, 3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 6) skeins or 630 (750, 830, 1000, 1130, 1300) yards in color jaffa.
At the time of writing this pattern, “King Cole Bamboo Cotton”, a DK weight yarn, is available in 27 solid shades.
Available at LoveCrafts (aff link). If you’re in the US, look up at the top right to switch to US Dollars. I’ve purchased from them for years and love the selection.
Yarn Note: This yarn is very slinky and easy to split. It has a beautiful luster and drape. You may want to try different styles of crochet hook if you find that you’re experiencing a lot of splitting or slipping. You will also need to weave in your ends a little more securely than you would normally. The yarn is very similar to NaturallyCaron Spa, if you remember that one from 2008-2013.
Other Materials
Suggested Crochet Hook Size H-8 (5mm) or hook needed to meet gauge, referred to as “larger hook” AND Size G-7 (4.5mm) crochet hook, for trim only, referred to as “smaller hook”.
Yarn Needle for weaving ends.
Gauge
Using larger hook, 17 sc for 17 rows measures 4 x 4″.
Special Stitches
V-Stitch (V-st): [dc, ch 1, dc] in same stitch.
Other Abbreviations
This tank top crochet pattern is written in US crochet terminology.
beg=beginning; ch=chain; dc=double crochet; prev=previous; RS=right side; rep=repeat; sc=single crochet; sk=skip; sl=slip; st(s)=stitch(es).
Since there are so many sizes, you may want to print out the pattern and circle only those numbers that apply to the size you are making.
The numbers at the end of an instruction, after a colon, indicate the stitch count for that row.
New Pattern Free PDF Download Weekend
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The PDF download for the Orange Blossom Sleeveless Tank Top pattern is available for free this weekend only. This promotion ends at 11:59pm CST, Monday, February 26.
Free Crochet Pattern Instructions
Tank Top Bodice Back
Note: The larger hook (see Materials above) is used throughout. The only time the smaller hook is used is for the trim around the armholes and neckline. Either side can be the “right side”. You’ll choose which side you prefer, only once it comes down to seaming and you’ll want them to be the same side of the work at that point.
Row 1: With larger hook, ch 73 (81, 89, 99, 107, 115), sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each remaining ch across: 72 (80, 88, 98, 106, 114) sc.
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn: 72 (80, 88, 98, 106, 114) sc.
Rep row 2 until 15 (17, 17, 23, 23, 23) rows have been completed from beg. (You can mark each section with stitch markers or yarn if it makes it easier to keep track of the rows.)
Armhole
Row 1: Sl st across 5 (5, 6, 7, 9, 9) sc, ch 1, sc in same sc and in each sc to last 5 (5, 6, 7, 9, 9) sc, turn, leaving remaining sc unworked: 62 (70, 76, 84, 88, 96) sc.
Row 2: Ch 1, sk first sc, sc in each remaining sc to last 2 sc, sk next sc, sc in last sc, turn: 60 (68, 74, 82, 86, 94) sc.
Rep row 2 until 7 (7, 9, 11, 11, 13) rows have been completed from beg of armhole: 50 (58, 60, 64, 68, 72) sc.
Next row: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn: 50 (58, 60, 64, 68, 72) sc.
Rep prev row until 20 (20, 20, 22, 20, 22) rows have been completed from beg of armhole: 50 (58, 60, 64, 68, 72) sc. (Note: That slight decrease from the 1X to 2X is correct. There is an increase in neck depth while the actual armhole height didn’t increase. The total for the entire bodice height is correct.)
First Shoulder
Row 1: Ch 1, sc across 17 (19, 19, 19, 21, 21) sc, turn, leaving remaining sc unworked: 17 (19, 19, 19, 21, 21) sc.
Row 2: Ch 1, sk first sc, sc in each remaining sc, turn: 16 (18, 18, 18, 20, 20) sc.
Row 3: Ch 1, sc in each sc to last 2 sc, sk next sc, sc in last sc, turn: 15 (17, 17, 17, 19, 19) sc.
Rep rows 2-3 until 9 (9, 9, 9, 9, 9) rows have been completed from beg of shoulder: 9 (11, 11, 11, 13, 13) sc.
Rep row 2 once more: 8 (10, 10, 10, 12, 12) sc.
Next row: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn: 8 (10, 10, 10, 12, 12) sc.
Rep prev row until 18 (20, 20, 20, 22, 22) rows have been completed from beg of shoulder: 8 (10, 10, 10, 12, 12) sc. Fasten off after final row.
Second Shoulder
Row 1: Count across 16 (20, 22, 26, 26, 30) unworked sc from row 1 of First Shoulder, join yarn with sl st, ch 1, sc in each remaining sc, turn: 17 (19, 19, 19, 21, 21) sc.
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each sc to last 2 sc, sk next sc, sc in last sc, turn: 16 (18, 18, 18, 20, 20) sc.
Row 3: Ch 1, sk first sc, sc in each remaining sc, turn: 15 (17, 17, 17, 19, 19) sc.
Rep rows 2-3 until 9 (9, 9, 9, 9, 9) rows have been completed from beg of shoulder: 9 (11, 11, 11, 13, 13) sc.
Rep row 2 once more: 8 (10, 10, 10, 12, 12) sc.
Next row: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn: 8 (10, 10, 10, 12, 12) sc.
Rep prev row until 18 (20, 20, 20, 22, 22) rows have been completed from beg of shoulder: 8 (10, 10, 10, 12, 12) sc. Fasten off after final row.
Tank Top Bodice Front
Rep as for Bodice Back up to Armhole.
Armhole
Row 1: Sl st across 5 (5, 6, 7, 9, 9) sc, ch 1, sc in same sc and in each sc to last 5 (5, 6, 7, 9, 9) sc, turn, leaving remaining sc unworked: 62 (70, 76, 84, 88, 96) sc.
Row 2: Ch 1, sk first sc, sc in each sc to last 2 sc, sk next sc, sc in last sc, turn: 60 (68, 74, 82, 86, 94) sc.
Rep row 2 until 9 (9, 11, 13, 13, 15) rows have been completed from beg of armhole: 46 (54, 56, 60, 64, 68) sc.
Next row: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn: 46 (54, 56, 60, 64, 68) sc.
Rep prev row until 16 (16, 16, 18, 16, 18) rows have been completed from beg of armhole: 46 (54, 56, 60, 64, 68) sc. . (Note: That slight decrease from the 1X to 2X is correct. There is an increase in neck depth while the actual armhole height didn’t increase. The total for the entire bodice height is correct.)
First Shoulder
Row 1: Ch 1, sc across 17 (19, 19, 19, 21, 21) sc, turn, leaving remaining sc unworked: 17 (19, 19, 19, 21, 21) sc.
Row 2: Ch 1, sk first sc, sc in each remaining sc, turn: 16 (18, 18, 18, 20, 20) sc.
Row 3: Ch 1, sc in each sc to last 2 sc, sk next sc, sc in last sc, turn: 15 (17, 17, 17, 19, 19) sc.
Rep rows 2-3 until 9 (9, 9, 9, 9, 9) rows have been completed from beg of shoulder: 9 (11, 11, 11, 13, 13) sc.
Rep row 2 once more: 8 (10, 10, 10, 12, 12) sc.
Next row: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn: 8 (10, 10, 10, 12, 12) sc.
Rep prev row until 22 (24, 24, 24, 26, 26) rows have been completed from beg of shoulder: 8 (10, 10, 10, 12, 12) sc. Fasten off after final row.
Second Shoulder
Row 1: Count across 12 (16, 18, 22, 22, 26) unworked sc from row 1 of First Shoulder, join yarn with sl st, ch 1, sc in each remaining sc, turn: 17 (19, 19, 19, 21, 21) sc.
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each sc to last 2 sc, sk next sc, sc in last sc, turn: 16 (18, 18, 18, 20, 20) sc.
Row 3: Ch 1, sk first sc, sc in each remaining sc, turn: 15 (17, 17, 17, 19, 19) sc.
Rep rows 2-3 until 9 (9, 9, 9, 9, 9) rows have been completed from beginning of shoulder: 9 (11, 11, 11, 13, 13) sc.
Rep row 2 once more: 8 (10, 10, 10, 12, 12) sc.
Next row: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn: 8 (10, 10, 10, 12, 12) sc.
Rep prev row until 22 (24, 24, 24, 26, 26) rows have been completed from beg of shoulder: 8 (10, 10, 10, 12, 12) sc. Fasten off after final row.
Seaming
Choose which sides you prefer for the RS and, with yarn needle, seam shoulders and sides of Bodice.
Lower Skirting
Turn the Bodice upside down to begin working top-down.
Round 1: Join yarn at either side seam, ch 1, work 144 (160, 176, 200, 216, 232) sc evenly around, sl st to first sc: 144 (160, 176, 200, 216, 232) sc.
Round 2: Ch 2, 4 dc in same sc as joining, *sk 3 sc, V-st (see Special Stitches above) in next sc, sk 3 sc, [5 dc] in next sc, rep from * to last 7 sc, sk 3 sc, V-st in next sc, sk 3 sc, sl st to top of beg ch-2 AND sl st in top of next 2 dc.
Round 3: Ch 3 (counts as dc, plus ch 1 sp), dc in same dc, *[5 dc] in ch-1 sp of next V-st, V-st in third dc of next 5-dc group, rep from * to last V-st, [5 dc] in ch-1 sp of last V-st, sl st to second ch of beg ch-3 AND sl st in ch-1 sp.
Round 4: Ch 2, 4 dc in same ch-1 sp, *V-st in third dc of next 5-dc group, [5 dc] in ch-1 sp of next V-st, rep from * to last 5-dc group, V-st in third dc of last 5-dc group, sl st to top of beg ch-2 AND sl st in top of next 2 dc.
Rep rounds 3-4 until 20 (20, 20, 20, 22, 24) rounds completed from beg (remember to count the single crochet round), or until desired length, fasten off.
Finishing
Armhole Trim. Using smaller hook, join with sl st at bottom seam of armhole, ch 1, sc around, sl st to first sc, fasten off. Rep for opposite side armhole.
Neckline Trim. Using smaller hook, join with sl st at either shoulder seam, ch 1, sc around, sl st to first sc, fasten off.
With yarn needle, weave in all ends securely. Block as desired.
Schematic
This schematic provides measurements for the Bodice Back. The Bodice Front is the same except the measurement from armhole to armhole is 1″ less.
If you have ever made a tank top for yourself before and the armhole to armhole measurement is the same for both sides, you’ve probably noticed that your bra straps aren’t covered on one side. This is because the front width should be approximately 1″ to 1.5″ different than the back width due to the curvature of the clavicles. Whenever possible, all of my clothing patterns provide this feature for a better fit.
I have also allowed for a 1″ difference between the back neck depth and the front neck depth. The front neck depth is deeper, as is typical with most scoop neck tops. You’ll be able to tell easily which is the front and which is the back.
With the Skirting as written, the total measurements from shoulder to hem are 21 (22, 22, 24, 25, 26)”.
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Love the pattern. I especially appreciate all the design notes you added, like notes about “slinky” yarn and the finer points about tank top armholes and strap/shoulder design for better fit. Helps me know what to look for in other patterns and what to consider when creating something without a pattern. Thank you.
You’re very welcome! I hope you enjoy the pattern. 🙂
Beautiful! I have this fiery orange yarn and was hoping to crochet a tank top, when I came across this! Great pattern with awesome notes.
Thank you!
Thanks so much for writing! I hope you enjoy it 🙂
for the armhole, are we skipping a stitch at the beginning and the end, therefore reducing by 2 at each row?
at the beginning of the row we ch 1 and then skip a st, are we skipping the one attach to the ch or the next?
For the armhole, after you’ve completed the initial larger decreasing, you will skip the one the very first one, then work all the way across until there are 2 left. Skip 1 single crochet and work into the last one. This gives a smoother transition at the edge. It will reduce your total by 2 on each row. When you complete this section, you will be able to check your stitch count in the final decrease row. I hope that helps.
This pattern is so beautiful and very easy to make . . . Loved this!!!
I made my first tanktop’s Lower Skirting half the size (10 rounds vs. 20 rounds). It came out gorgeous!!! However, I have a question: How can I take in the sides of the Lower Skirting 1½ inches on each side without making tanktop look “lumpy” or starting a whole new tanktop? Can I cut it and glue sides to prevent unraveling? Help please!
If you want to reduce the circumference of the lower 10 rounds, you would be better off to unravel that portion to start only that part again. You can either rework those rounds with a smaller size hook or you can reduce round 2 of the skirting. It may seem like a lot but, when evenly spaced throughout, it’s not that much. You know where it says:
*sk 3 sc, V-st (see Special Stitches above) in next sc, sk 3 sc, [5 dc] in next sc,
For the size small, there are 18 repeats of this section (including the beginning and ending stitches). Instead of the above, you could work *sk 3 sc, V-st, sk 4 sc, [5 dc] in next. So, there are 4 skipped sc before each 5 dc-group. This would effectively reduce the first round to 16 repeats, which may get you to the circumference you want.
Can’t wait to make this beautiful tank top! Thank you for sharing your designs and patterns
You’re welcome! Enjoy your project 🙂
Hello
I was hoping you could explain this “ The lace portion is also easy to adjust. If you need more room or you prefer something more like an empire waist, you can work on a stitch multiple of 6 instead of 8. Instead of skipping 3 stitches between groups, skip only 2 stitches. This will create extra fullness around the torso and hips.” I’m a bigger girl so I’m thinking more room might be better but I’m not sure I am seeing where you are mentioning the multiple of 6 so not sure where to use the multiple of 8
On the first round of the lace portion, instead of skipping 3 stitches in between each repeat, you can skip 2 stitches. This will have you working on a 6 stitch repeat. It won’t be absolutely perfect so you’ll have to sort of work it in for a couple of places. If it turns out to be too full, you can go back and forth around, skipping 3 on one repeat then skipping 2 on the next repeat. It only matters for that first round, then everything will be the same, except more repeats, which will require more yarn, depending on how full you want it.
Can I substitute 100 percent bamboo yarn for the recommended blend? I can get that now and I want to start this right away. Thank you!
100% bamboo yarn is pretty slinky and you may need to work a bit to get gauge. When you make your swatch, be sure to wet it and block it, since that will cause the yarn to bloom and fill it out. It will snag easier and will require extra care. Other than that, I can see no reason why you shouldn’t give it a try. I’ve done tops in bamboo. The color is so vivid and the texture is fantastic.