This Tunisian Crochet in the Round project is a double-thick, super squishy scarf, perfect for anyone. The two colors form a beautiful mock cable throughout.
“Mock Cable Scarf” free Tunisian Crochet pattern by Kim Guzman, © Dec. 2022. All rights reserved.
Technique: Tunisian Crochet in the Round.
Skill Level: Challenging.
Crochet Pattern At A Glance
Tunisian Crochet In The Round Mock Cable Scarf
Designer: Kim Guzman © 2022-24. All rights reserved.Rate the Pattern
Yarn
- Stylecraft “Special DK”, 100% acrylic, 322 yds/295m per 3.5 oz/100g per skein: 322 yards Camel and 322 yards Khaki.
Other Materials
- Double Ended Tunisian Crochet Hook Size J-10 (6mm) or hook needed to meet gauge.
- Stitch Marker to mark the rounds.
- Yarn Needle for weaving ends.
Instructions
- Round 1: Work Founation Row.
- Round 2: Join the beginning and end into a circle to begin working in a spiral.
- Rounds 3-5: Establish 3-round stitch pattern.
- Rounds 6-170: Rep 3-rounds.
- Rounds 171-172: Rep 2 more rounds.
- Round 173: Work a variation of round 5.
- Final Round: Slip stitch around to close the top of the stitches.
- Create "pouf" on each end.
Full Free Crochet Pattern Below
This is a free crochet pattern and the written instructions are below. If you prefer a printable download, a PDF is also available for purchase.
Why Use a Double-Ended Tunisian Crochet Hook
Many times, when working in Tunisian Crochet, you have a one-ended hook. If using a Tunisian hook with only one hook, you don’t turn your work and everything is worked flat. It’s not possible to work in the round.
With a double-ended Tunisian crochet hook, however, you have the option to make projects worked in a tube. This opens up a lot of other possibilities like hats, cowls and more. This project is a double-thick scarf, worked in a long tube.
It takes a little bit of extra work but it’s so worth it. The super squishy scarf is so soft that you will want to use it all the time.
I enjoy Double Ended Tunisian so much that I wrote an entire book on it. It was published in 2014 and included 8 patterns teaching the technique from working flat to in-the-round and mobius as well.
Other Names for Double-Ended Tunisian Crochet
You may have seen this technique called by other names. So far, I’ve heard:
- Crochet on the Double
- Cro-Hook
- Crohook
- Crochenit
- Croknit
It’s not so much that these names are incorrect. It’s just that different publishers came up with different names. Sometimes, they were trademarked and it wasn’t possible to use the same name.
My Crochet Pattern Notes
Tunisian Crochet in the round is fairly challenging especially with a 3-round repeat. You must be able to keep track of your stitches and concentrate. This project is intended for a crocheter already familiar with Tunisian crochet.
If you aren’t ready for such an involved Tunisian Crochet Pattern, this pattern can be worked flat instead, with a one-sided Tunisian Crochet hook. You won’t be able to achieve the same colorwork, but the stitch pattern is lovely and looks good in a solid color as well.
This chart shows the stitch pattern, but adds three extra stitches at the beginning and one extra stitch at the end of a row in order to even it out. You would need a multiple of 5, plus 4 (for those extra stitches), plus 1 when skipping the first chain of the foundation.
The entire chart is used for a flat project and I’m providing it for reference only. A Tunisian crochet in the round project, like this scarf, is only worked in the 5-stitch repeat. The extra stitches are unnecessary.
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Finished Size
Flat: 5 1/2″ wide, 52″ long.
Yarn
Stylecraft “Special DK”, 100% acrylic, 322 yds/295m per 3.5 oz/100g per skein: 322 yards Camel and 322 yards Khaki.
“Special Double Knit” is classified as a DK weight (size 3) yarn and is currently available in 100 shades.
Available at LoveCrafts (aff link). If you’re in the US, look up at the top right to switch to US Dollars. I’ve purchased from them for years and love the selection.
Yarn Substitution
I’ve used DK weight yarn (size 3) because I love this size. There’s a lot of yardage on a 100g skein of Stylecraft Special DK. You could use any yarn you like, using the hook size you prefer. You may need to make changes to the number of stitches and the amount of yarn required.
If you are unable to use Stylecraft Special DK, any acrylic or acrylic blend in size 3 lightweight yarn will be close enough.
Other Materials
Double Ended Tunisian Crochet Hook Size J-10 (6mm) or hook needed to meet gauge.
Stitch Marker to mark the rounds.
Yarn Needle for weaving ends.
Gauge
18 stitches for 13 rows measures approximately 4″ square.
Working at a different tension may require additional materials.
Special Stitches
Tunisian Reverse Stitch (trs): Keeping hook in back of work, insert hook from side-to-side under back vertical bar, yarn over, pull loop through.
Tunisian Knit Stitch (tks): Insert hook from front of work to back of work, between front and back vertical bars of same stitch, yarn over, pull loop through.
Tunisian Full Stitch (tfs): Insert hook from front of work to back of work, under the top closing chain between the stitches (not into any vertical bar of any stitch), yarn over, pull loop through.
Cross Stitch (cross): Skip chain-1 space and 3-stitch group, tfs in next chain-1 space, then go back and tfs in the chain-1 space previously skipped.
Other Abbreviations
This Tunisian Crochet Scarf pattern is written in US crochet terminology.
ch=chain; lp(s)=loop(s); rep=repeat; sk=skip; st(s)=stitch(es); yo=yarn over.
All numbers after the colon at the end of an instruction are stitch counts. Use the stitch count to check your work.
Free Crochet Pattern Instructions
Since this project is worked in the round, you will need to complete two or more “passes” of picking up loops in order to make it all the way around. Although the pattern provides a total number of stitches for each round, the sections won’t include all those stitches. Pulling up loops will always be done with the first color and closing of loops will always be done with the second color.
I was able to get around the entire round of the scarf in two passes, about half of the stitches each time. Always work the two Reverse stitches before turning and close up to those Reverse stitches (leaving them unclosed) before turning back again to pull up loops. It helps with both counting and maintaining the stability of the stitches themselves.
Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round and move it up as your work progresses.
Round 1:
A: With Camel, ch 51, sk first ch, *insert hook in next ch, yo, pull lp through (leave lp on hook), rep from * across: 50 lps.
B: Turn hook 180 degrees so back of work is facing you, push lps to opposite end of hook, pull Khaki through one lp on hook. Continuing now with Khaki, [yo, pull through 2 lps on hook] across. When closing stitches in two or more “passes”, always remember to leave the last 2 stitches on the hook to maintain stability of the loops.
Round 2:
A: Turn hook back around and, without twisting the foundation, bring the first stitch close to the last stitch, now working with Camel, *3 tks (see Special Stitches above), 2 trs (see Special Stitches above), rep from * around: 50 lps.
B: Turn hook 180 degrees, push lps to opposite end of hook, and now working with Khaki, *[yo, pull through 2 lps on hook] twice, ch 1, yo, pull through 4 lps on hook (closing 3 sts), ch 1, rep from * around. Note that you are closing the reverse stitches normally and you are pulling the knit stitches together into a group, with a chain 1 space on each side of that group.
Round 3:
A: Turn hook back around and, now working with Camel, *Cross stitch (see Special Stitches above) over the 3-st group, 2 trs, rep from * around: 40 lps.
B: Turn hook 180 degrees, push lps to opposite end of hook, and now working with Khaki, *[yo, pull through 2 lps on hook] twice, yo, pull through 2 lps on hook, ch 1, yo, pull through 2 lps on hook, rep from * around. Note that you are closing the reverse stitches normally. The 2 stitches of the Cross are also being closed normally, except there is an extra chain between them.
Round 4:
A: Turn hook back around and, now working with Camel, *tks in first bar of Cross, tfs (see Special Stitches above) in ch-1 sp of Cross, tks in second bar of Cross, 2 trs, rep from * around: 50 lps.
B: Turn hook 180 degrees, push lps to opposite end of hook, and now working with Khaki, [yo, pull through 2 lps on hook] around.
Round 5:
A: Turn hook back around and, now working with Camel, *3 tks, 2 trs, rep from * around: 50 lps.
B: Turn hook 180 degrees, push lps to opposite end of hook, and now working with Khaki, *[yo, pull through 2 lps on hook] twice, ch 1, yo, pull through 4 lps on hook (closing 3 sts), ch 1, rep from * around. Note that you are closing the reverse stitches normally and you are pulling the knit stitches together into a group, with a chain 1 space on each side of that group.
Rounds 6-170: Rep rounds 3-5.
Rounds 171-172: Rep rounds 3-4.
Round 173:
A: Turn hook back around and, now working with Camel, *3 tks, 2 trs, rep from * around: 50 lps.
B: Turn hook 180 degrees, push lps to opposite end of hook, and now working with Khaki, [yo, pull through 2 lps on hook] around.
Final round: With Khaki (or Camel, if you prefer), sl st in each front vertical bar around, fasten off. Using the yarn strand, join the first and last stitch together.
With yarn needle, join the foundation by pulling the beginning yarn strand through the first and last stitches of the first round. Weave in all ends securely.
Finishing
Cut off a piece of yarn about 12″ long. About 1-1/2 to 2″ from the bottom edge, tie the strand around the edge to form a little “pouf”. Tie as tightly as possible without damaging the strand. Repeat for opposite side. Weave in the loose ends.
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